Some unexpected good news from the FDA: biomotrezinol, a sunscreen ingredient that has been used in Europe and Asia for decades, is Finally being added to the list of allowable ingredients for products sold in the US Bomotrisenol is the active ingredient in water essence-like sunscreens, which have a cult following in the US for being unlike anything else.

I have tried the Bio UV Aqua Rich Water Essence (that’s the full name of the product) in its original Japanese formulation. This sunscreen is a cult favorite on skincare and Asian beauty forums for its non-greasy feel, and because it protects against both UVA and UVB rays without leaving a white cast. I got mine from a friend who either picked it up while traveling or possibly ordered it from overseas. You can’t buy it in US-based stores.

I’ll explain why it is below, but first: it’s really nothing like what we have natively. Even our most “non-greasy” sunscreens feel a little goopy or sticky. It really doesn’t feel like anything after you rub it in. I immediately understood why it was sought after. Remembering this experience, I look forward to what we might see in American sunscreens once manufacturers are allowed to include this ingredient.

What’s so special about Bimotrezinol?

Bimotrezinol has a lot going for it. One is that it “plays well with other sunscreen ingredients,” according to one dermatologist Told Women’s Health. You can make a light, good-feeling sunscreen with it, hence the popularity of the Biore formulation I tried. To see what I mean, check it out This video Where a dermatologist points out the differences between Bio’s Japanese formulation and its version sold in the U.S., the ingredients are different, and the texture isn’t exactly the same.

It is also more effective in broad spectrum protection. With our current sunscreen formulations, all active ingredients protect against UVB rays (the rays that cause sunburn) but only a few can also protect against UVA rays (which contribute to skin wrinkles and aging). UVB is considered the greatest risk factor for skin cancer, but both probably contribute to cancer risk. Right now, most broad-spectrum American sunscreens use mineral ingredients like zinc oxide. Mineral sunscreens work very well, but can leave a white cast on your skin when applied.

Bimotrezinol is a chemical UV filter, so it doesn’t leave a white cast. But it protects well against UVA rays in addition to UVB, and it’s a lot more photostable than our current chemical sunscreen ingredients so it lasts longer on the skin. In other words, it’s a chemical sunscreen, but combines some of the best features of both chemical and mineral sunscreens.

It is considered one of the safest sunscreens. All sunscreens on the market are Much safer than going without sunscreenbut all our chemical sunscreen ingredients are currently Undergoing safety evaluation Because regulators determined they are Maybe Well, but more research is needed to know for sure. Currently only two of our mineral sunscreen ingredients (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are considered GRAS, or generally recognized as safe and effective. Bemotrizinol would be the third.

If you’re looking at ingredient lists on Asian or European sunscreens, be aware that it goes by many names. tinosorb s is bemotrizinol ; So is BIS-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

Why has it taken so long?

Ask anyone in the skincare world what they think of us about sunscreen, and for decades now you’ll get complaints that we’re missing out on the best sunscreens that the rest of the world uses. . This means that the US requires more stringent vetting and approval.

The CARES Act, which was passed for pandemic relief in 2020, provided a way to sell over-the-counter drugs without going through the full approval process, unless the FDA is satisfied they are safe and effective. Bimotrezinol met this criteria, thanks in large part to the fact that it has been used safely in Europe, Asia, and Australia since 2000. The FDA’s rule on biomotrezinol still needs to be finalized, but it looks like we’ll see the new sunscreen on shelves before the end of 2026.